Publications:Journal

Journal Papers and Book Chapters

2010

• Limits of Wave Runup and Corresponding Beach-Profile Change from Large-Scale Laboratory Data
• Sand Tracer Movement Measured in a Strong Rip Current
• A Cross-shore Model of Barrier Island Migration over a Compressible Substrate
• Model of Nearshore Waves and Wave-Induced Currents around a Detached Breakwater
• Calculation of beach change under interacting cross-shore and longshore processes
• Frequency of Extreme Storms Based on Beach Erosion at Northern Assateague Island, Maryland

Papers submitted to Journal of Coastal Research (JCR) Special issue: Symposium to Honor Dr. Nicholas C. Kraus.

• The Coastal Modeling System (CMS)
  • The Coastal Modeling System Flow Model (CMS-Flow): Past and Present
  • Recent Capabilities of CMS-Wave: A Coastal Wave Model for Inlets and Navigation Projects
  • An Implicit 2-D Shallow Water flow Model on Unstructured Quadtree Rectangular Mesh
  • A Unified Sediment Transport Model for Inlet Application
  • A Non-Equilibrium Sediment Transport Model for Coastal Inlets and Navigation Channels
• Coastal Morphology
  • New Ebb-Tidal Delta at an Old Inlet Shark River Inlet, New Jersey
  • Modeling Regional-Scale Sediment Transport and Medium-term Morphology Change at a Dual Inlet System Examined with the Coastal Modeling System (CMS): A Case Study at Johns Pass and Blind Pass, West-Central Florida
• Numerical Modeling
  • Long-Term Evolution of a Long-Term Evolution Model
• Engineering Studies
  • Channel Shoaling with Deepening of Houma Navigation Channel at Cat Island Pass, Louisiana

2009

• Estimation of the wave-related ripple characteristics and induced bed shear stress
• Geomorphologic Evolution of Barrier Islands along the Northern U.S. Gulf of Mexico and Implications for the Engineering Design in Barrier Restoration
• Depth-utilization Analysis for Estimating Economic Activity Supported by Dredging
• Sea Level Rise and Consequences for Navigable Coastal Inlets
• Laboratory and Numerical Studies of Hydrodynamics Near Jetties
• Hurricane Ike Along the Upper Texas Coast: An Introduction
• Equivalent Roughness Height for Plane Bed Oscillatory Flow

2008

• Drs. Leo C. van Rijn, Edward B. Thornton, and Nicholas C. Kraus Honored at the Coastal Sediments '07 Conference
• Episodic Dynamics of a Sand Wave Field.
• A General Formula for Non-cohesive Suspended Sediment Transport
• Implementation and evaluation of alternative wave breaking formulas in a coastal spectral wave model
• Incorporating Rubble Mound Jetties in Elliptic Harbor Wave Models
• Guidelines Based on Physical and Numerical Modeling Studies for Jetty Spur Design at Coastal Inlets
• Barrier Beach Breaching from the Lagoon Side, with Reference to Northern California
• Chapter 31: Engineering of Tidal Inlets and Morphologic Consequences
• Numerical Modeling of Storm Surges in Chesapeake Bay

2007

• Laboratory Investigation of Beach Scarp and Dune Recession Due to Notching and Subsequent Failure
• A New Formula for the Total Longshore Sediment Transport Rate

2006

• Phase Lag Effects in Sheet Flow Transport
• Equivalent Roughness Height for Plane Bed Under Steady Flow

2005

• Evaluation of an Approximate Method for Incorporating Floating Docks in Harbor Wave Prediction Models
• On the Modeling of Wave-Current Interaction Using the Elliptic Mild-Slope Equation
• Transport of Gravel and Cobble on a Mixed-sediment Inner Bank Shoreline of a Large Inlet, Grays Harbor, Washington
• An Unstructured Grid Morphodynamic Model with a Discontinuous Galerkin Method for Bed Evolution
• Evaluation of Two Numerical Wave Models with Inlet Physical Model
• Prediction of Swash Motion and Run-Up Including the Effects of Swash Interaction
• Beach Profile Equilibrium and Patterns of Wave Decay and Energy Dissipation Across the Surf Zone Elucidated in a Large-scale Laboratory Experiment
• Wave-Adjusted Boundary Condition for Longshore Current in Finite-Volume Circulation Models
• A General Formula for Non-Cohesive Bed Load Sediment Transport
• Concepts in Sediment Budgets
• A Method to Extract Wave Tank Data Using Video Imagery and its Comparison to Conventional Data Collection Techniques

2004

• Swash-Zone Sediment Transport and Foreshore Evolution: Field Experiments and Mathematical Modeling
• Wave Momentum Flux Parameter: A Descriptor for Nearshore Waves
• Estimation of Wave Runup on Smooth, Impermeable Slopes Using the Wave Momentum Flux Parameter
• Monitoring Morphology and Currents at the Hatteras Breach
• Rapid Response 3D Survey Techniques for Seamless Topy/Bathy Modeling: 2003 Hatteras Breach, North Carolina
• Lateral Structure of Uniform Flow
• Barrier Island Migration and Morphologic Evolution, Fire Island Inlet, New York

2003

• "Threes," an Unusual Surfing Spot at Shinnecock Inlet, New York
• Development of a Regional Neural Network for Coastal Water Level Predictions
• Transient Tidal Circulation and Momentum Balances at a Shallow Inlet
• Limiting Slopes and Depths at Ebb-Tidal Shoals

Articles in Coastal Engineering Journal Special Issue: Progress in Hydrodynamics and Morphodynamics of Tidal Inlets. A Global Update. Vol 45 (2003)

• Analytical Model of Incipient Breaching of Coastal Barriers
• Progress in Management of Sediment Bypassing at Coastal Inlets: Natural Bypassing, Weir Jetties, Jetty Spurs, and Engineering Aids in Design
• Recent Developments in the Geomorphic Investigation of Engineered Tidal Inlets

2002

• Lateral Dynamic Analysis and Classication of Barotropic Tidal Inlets
• T-Head Groin Advancements in One-Line Modeling: (Genesis-T)
• Inlet Formation and Evolution of the Sediment Bypassing System: New Inlet, Cape Cod, Massachusetts
• Barrier Breaching Processes and Barrier Spit Breach, Stone Lagoon, California
• Equilibrium Cross-Section Area at Tidal Inlets

2001

• Cross-shore Distribution of Longshore Sediment Transport: Comparison Between Predictive Formulas and Field Measurements
• Generation of Harmonics by Sea Breeze in Nontidal Water Bodies
• Numerical Modeling of Waves at Ponce de Leon Inlet, Florida

2000

• Model of Wave Breaking and Energy Dissipation on an Opposing Current
• Wave Pressure Gauge Analysis with a Current
• Reservoir Model of Ebb-Tidal Shoal Evolution and Sand Bypassing
• Effect of Offset Jetties on Tidal Inlet Flow
• Tidal Motion in a Complex Inlet and Bay System, Ponce de Leon Inlet, Florida

1999

• A Locally Nonlinear Interpretation of PUV Measurements
• Hydraulic Study of Multiple Inlet System: East Matagorda Bay, Texas
• Horizontal Water Trap for Measurement of Aeolian Sand Transport

1998

• See this CERCular article for a summary.

• Historical findings on shoal mining
• Comparison of Beach Profiles at a Seawall and Groins, Corpus Christi, Texas
• Current-Induced Scour Along a Breakwater at Ventura Harbor, CA - Experimental Study

1996

Journal of Coastal Research, Special Issue No. 23: Understanding Physical Processes at Tidal Inlets, Edited by Ashish J. Mehta

• A Perspective on Process Related Research Needs for Sandy Inlets
• Tidal-Inlet Processes and Morphology Related to the Transport of Sediments
• Geomorphic Variability and Morphological and Sedimentological Controls on Tidal Inlets
• Morphological Changes on a Decadal Time Scale in Tidal Inlets: Modeling Approaches
• Predicting the Stability of Tidal Inlets for Wetland and Estuary Management
• Interaction of Littoral Barriers and Adjacent Beaches: Effects on Profile Shape and Shoreline Change
• Navigation and Sand Bypassing at Inlets: Technical Management and Cost Aspects
• Role of Waves in Inlet Ebb Delta Growth and Some Research Needs Related to Site Selection for Delta Mining