CMS-Wave:Governing Equations: Difference between revisions

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(Created page with '<big> == Wave-action balance equation with diffraction == Taking into account the effect of an ambient horizontal current or wave behavior, CMS-Wave is based on the steady wave-a…')
 
(Created page with 'big == Wave-action balance equation with diffraction == Taking into account the effect of an ambient horizontal current or wave behavior, CMS-Wave is based on the steady wave-a…')
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== Wave-action balance equation with diffraction ==
== Wave-action balance equation with diffraction ==
Taking into account the effect of an ambient horizontal current or wave behavior, CMS-Wave is based on the steady wave-action balance equation (Mase 2001)
Taking into account the effect of an ambient horizontal current or wave behavior, CMS-Wave is based on the steady wave-action balance equation (Mase 2001)


         <math> \frac{\partial (c_x N)  }{\partial x}
         math \frac{\partial (c_x N)  }{\partial x}
+  \frac{\partial (c_y N)  }{\partial y}
+  \frac{\partial (c_y N)  }{\partial y}
+  \frac{\partial (c_{\theta} N)  }{\partial \theta}  
+  \frac{\partial (c_{\theta} N)  }{\partial \theta}  
= \frac{\kappa}{2 \sigma}  \biggl[ (c c_g \cos ^2 \theta N_y)_y - \frac{c c_g}{2} \cos ^2 \theta N_{yy} \biggr]
= \frac{\kappa}{2 \sigma}  \biggl[ (c c_g \cos ^2 \theta N_y)_y - \frac{c c_g}{2} \cos ^2 \theta N_{yy} \biggr]
- \epsilon_b N - S </math>
- \epsilon_b N - S /math


where  <math> N = E(\sigma,\theta)/\sigma </math> is the wave-action density to be solved and is a function of frequency σ and direction θ. E(σ,θ) is spectral wave density representing the wave energy per unit water-surface area per frequency interval. In the presence of an ambient current, the wave-action density is conserved, whereas the spectral wave density is not (Bretherton and Garrett 1968; Whitham 1974). Both wave diffraction and energy dissipation are included in the governing equation. Implementation of the numerical scheme is described elsewhere in the literature (Mase 2001; Mase et al. 2005a). C and Cg are wave celerity and group velocity, respectively; x and y are the horizontal coordinates; Cx, Cy, and Cθ are the characteristic velocity with respect to x, y, and, θ respectively; Ny and Nyy denote the first and second derivatives of N with respect to y, respectively; κ is an empirical parameter representing the intensity of diffraction effect; εb is the parameterization of wave breaking energy dissipation; S denotes additional source Sin and sink Sds (e.g., wind forcing, bottom friction loss, etc.) and nonlinear wave-wave interaction term.
where  math N = E(\sigma,\theta)/\sigma /math  is the wave-action density to be solved and is a function of frequency σ and direction θ. E(σ,θ) is spectral wave density representing the wave energy per unit water-surface area per frequency interval. In the presence of an ambient current, the wave-action density is conserved, whereas the spectral wave density is not (Bretherton and Garrett 1968; Whitham 1974). Both wave diffraction and energy dissipation are included in the governing equation. Implementation of the numerical scheme is described elsewhere in the literature (Mase 2001; Mase et al. 2005a). C and Cg are wave celerity and group velocity, respectively; x and y are the horizontal coordinates; Cx, Cy, and Cθ are the characteristic velocity with respect to x, y, and, θ respectively; Ny and Nyy denote the first and second derivatives of N with respect to y, respectively; κ is an empirical parameter representing the intensity of diffraction effect; εb is the parameterization of wave breaking energy dissipation; S denotes additional source Sin and sink Sds (e.g., wind forcing, bottom friction loss, etc.) and nonlinear wave-wave interaction term.


{| border="1"
{| border=1
! Symbol !! Description
! Symbol !! Description
|-
|-
| <math> \sigma </math> || Wave frequency  
| math \sigma /math || Wave frequency  
|-
|-
| <math> N </math> ||  Wave action  
| math N /math ||  Wave action  
|-
|-
| <math> E </math> ||  Spectral wave density
| math E /math ||  Spectral wave density
|-
|-
| <math> c </math> ||  Wave celerity
| math c /math ||  Wave celerity
|-
|-
| <math> c_g </math> || Wave group velocity
| math c_g /math || Wave group velocity
|}
|}


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</big>
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[[CMS#Documentation_Portal | Documentation Portal]]
[[CMS#Documentation_Portal | Documentation Portal]]

Revision as of 14:23, 19 May 2010

big

Wave-action balance equation with diffraction

Taking into account the effect of an ambient horizontal current or wave behavior, CMS-Wave is based on the steady wave-action balance equation (Mase 2001)

        math \frac{\partial (c_x N)  }{\partial x}

+ \frac{\partial (c_y N) }{\partial y} + \frac{\partial (c_{\theta} N) }{\partial \theta} = \frac{\kappa}{2 \sigma} \biggl[ (c c_g \cos ^2 \theta N_y)_y - \frac{c c_g}{2} \cos ^2 \theta N_{yy} \biggr] - \epsilon_b N - S /math

where math N = E(\sigma,\theta)/\sigma /math is the wave-action density to be solved and is a function of frequency σ and direction θ. E(σ,θ) is spectral wave density representing the wave energy per unit water-surface area per frequency interval. In the presence of an ambient current, the wave-action density is conserved, whereas the spectral wave density is not (Bretherton and Garrett 1968; Whitham 1974). Both wave diffraction and energy dissipation are included in the governing equation. Implementation of the numerical scheme is described elsewhere in the literature (Mase 2001; Mase et al. 2005a). C and Cg are wave celerity and group velocity, respectively; x and y are the horizontal coordinates; Cx, Cy, and Cθ are the characteristic velocity with respect to x, y, and, θ respectively; Ny and Nyy denote the first and second derivatives of N with respect to y, respectively; κ is an empirical parameter representing the intensity of diffraction effect; εb is the parameterization of wave breaking energy dissipation; S denotes additional source Sin and sink Sds (e.g., wind forcing, bottom friction loss, etc.) and nonlinear wave-wave interaction term.

Symbol Description
math \sigma /math Wave frequency
math N /math Wave action
math E /math Spectral wave density
math c /math Wave celerity
math c_g /math Wave group velocity

/big Documentation Portal