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Field Experiment

Waves and currents were measured at Duck, NC, during October 1-19, 1990 along a cross-shore array of instruments approximately every 3 hr. For additional details on the field experiment the reader is referred to Smith, et al. (1993). The datasets presented here were collected on October 14 for which the beach profile consisted of a pronounced longshore bar .

Model Setup

A nonuniform Cartesian grid is used with a variable resolution in the cross-shore direction between 2-6 m, and a constant resolution in the longshore direction of 6 m. Table 1 shows the offshore wave conditions at an 8-m water depth.

Table 1. Offshore wave conditions

Variable Value
Incident wave angle 32º
Offshore significant wave height 0.94 m
Wave period 9.7 sec

Table 2. CMS-Flow setup

Setting Value
Solution scheme Implicit
Time step 120 sec
Simulation duration 3 hr
Ramp duration 3 hr
Clock time 1.2 min

Table 3. CMS-Wave setup

Setting Value
Wave breaking Jansen and Battjes
Spectrum TMA
Directional spreading distribution Cosine Power
Directional spreading parameter γ 3.3
Bottom friction Off
Steering interval 0.25 hr


Figure 1. Comparison of measured and calculated significant wave heights for the DELILAH field experiment.
Figure 2. Comparison of measured and calculated longshore currents for the DELILAH field experiment.

Table 4. Goodness of fit statistics for the DELILAH field experiment

  No Roller Roller
  Hs, m V, m/s Hs, m V, m/s
RMSE 0.0702 0.2968 0.0808 0.0740
RMAE 0.0311 0.5147 0.0375 0.0010
R2 0.933 0.400 0.9274 0.9150
Bias 0.040 -0.206 0.0486 0.0004


  • Smith, J. M., Larson, M., and Kraus, N. C. (1993). "Longshore current on a barred beach: Field measurements and calculation," Journal of Geophysical Research, 98(C12), 22,717-22,731.

Test Cases

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