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<big>
__NOTOC__
<font color=red>'''UNDER CONSTRUCTION'''</font>
==Field Data==  
==Field Data==  
Kuriyama and Ozaki (1993) measured the cross-shore distribution of longshore current and wave height at the Hazaki Oceanographical Research Facility (HORF) located on the Japan Pacific coast. Longshore current measurements were made from a 427 m long pier using a float. The wave heights were calculated with ultrasonic wave gauges. The data presented here was taken on March 28, 1989.
Kuriyama and Ozaki (1993) measured the cross-shore distribution of longshore current and wave height at the Hazaki Oceanographical Research Facility (HORF) located on the Japan Pacific coast. Longshore current measurements were made from a 427 m long pier using a float. The wave heights were calculated with ultrasonic wave gauges. The data presented here was taken on March 28, 1989.
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A nonuniform Cartesian grid is used with a variable resolution in the cross-shore direction of 3-10 m and a constant resolution of 4 m in the longshore direction. Table 1 shows the offshore wave conditions used in the model simulation. Specific settings for CMS-Flow and CMS-Wave including time steps and steering interval are provided in Tables 2 and 3.
A nonuniform Cartesian grid is used with a variable resolution in the cross-shore direction of 3-10 m and a constant resolution of 4 m in the longshore direction. Table 1 shows the offshore wave conditions used in the model simulation. Specific settings for CMS-Flow and CMS-Wave including time steps and steering interval are provided in Tables 2 and 3.


Table 1. Offshore wave conditions
'''Table 1. Offshore wave conditions'''
{|border="1"  
{|border="1"  
|Variable |Value
!Variable !!Value
|-
|-
|Incident wave angle |27º
|Incident wave angle ||27º
|-
|-
|Offshore significant wave height |2.14 m
|Offshore significant wave height ||2.14 m
|-
|-
|Wave period |8.86 sec
|Wave period ||8.86 sec
|}
|}
Table 2. CMS-Flow setup
 
'''Table 2. CMS-Flow setup'''
{|border="1"  
{|border="1"  
|Setting |Value
!Setting !!Value
|-
|-
|Solver |Implicit
|Solver ||Implicit
|-
|-
|Time step |60 sec
|Time step ||60 sec
|-
|-
|Simulation duration |3 hr
|Simulation duration ||3 hr
|-
|-
|Ramp duration |3 hr
|Ramp duration ||3 hr
|-
|-
|Clock time |2.8 min
|Clock time ||2.8 min
|}
|}


Table 3. CMS-Wave setup
'''Table 3. CMS-Wave setup'''
{|border="1"  
{|border="1"  
|Setting |Value
!Setting !! Value
|-
|-
|Wave breaking |Battjes and Jansen
|Wave breaking ||Battjes and Jansen
|-
|-
|Spectrum |TMA
|Spectrum ||TMA
|-
|-
|Directional spreading distribution | Cosine Power
|Directional spreading distribution || Cosine Power
|-
|-
|Directional spreading parameter γ |3.3
|Directional spreading parameter γ ||3.3
|-
|-
|Bottom friction |Off
|Bottom friction ||Off
|-
|-
|Steering interval |0.25 hr
|Steering interval ||0.25 hr
|}
|}
==Results==
==Results==
The computed longshore current and significant wave heights are compared to field measurements in Figures 1 and 2. In general, a good comparison is obtained with measurements as illustrated by the goodness of fit statistics shown in Table 4.
The computed longshore current and significant wave heights are compared to field measurements in Figures 1 and 2. In general, a good comparison is obtained with measurements as illustrated by the goodness of fit statistics shown in Table 4.
   
   
[[Image:Kuriyama-wiki_01.png|framed|none]]
[[Image:Kuriyama_Ozaki_WavePro_V2.png|thumb|left|600px|Figure 1. Comparison of measured and calculated significant wave heights for the Kuriyama and Ozaki (1993) field experiment. The beach profile is also shown for reference.]]
 
Figure 1. Comparison of measured and calculated significant wave heights for the Kuriyama and Ozaki (1993) field experiment. The beach profile is also shown for reference.
<br style="clear:both" />
   
[[Image:Kuriyama_Ozaki_CurrentPro_V2.png|thumb|left|600px|Figure 2. Comparison of measured and calculated longshore current for the Kuriyama and Ozaki (1993) field experiment. The beach profile is also shown for reference.]]
[[Image:Kuriyama-wiki_02.png|framed|none]]
 
<br style="clear:both" />
Figure 2. Comparison of measured and calculated longshore current for the Kuriyama and Ozaki (1993) field experiment. The beach profile is also shown for reference.
'''Table 4. Goodness of fit statistics for the Kuriyama abd Ozaki (1993) field case'''
   
Table 4. Goodness of fit statistics for the Kuriyama abd Ozaki (1993) field case
{|border="1"  
{|border="1"  
|&nbsp;
|&nbsp;
|Significant wave height, m |Longshore current, m/s
|align = "center" colspan = "2" |No Roller
|align = "center" colspan = "2" |Roller
|-
|-
|RMSE |0.0976 |0.1539
|&nbsp; ||Hs, m ||V, m/s ||Hs, m ||V, m/s
|-
|-
|RMAE |0.0291 |0.0078
|RMSE ||0.1020 ||0.2098 ||0.0976 ||0.1539
|-
|-
|R<sup>2</sup> |0.995 |0.324
|RMAE ||0.0457 ||0.0666 ||0.0434 ||0.0142
|-
|-
|Bias | -0.062 |0.006
|R<sup>2</sup> ||0.994 ||0.0015 ||0.995||0.3236
|-
|Bias ||-0.066||0.0284 ||-0.062 ||0.006  
|}
|}
* For a definition of the goodness of fit statistics see [[Statistics |  Goodness of fit statistics]]


==References==
==References==
*Kuriyama, Y., and Ozaki, Y. (1993). "Longshore current distribution on a bar-trough beach, Field measurements at HORF and numerical model," Report of Port and Harbour Research Institute 32(3), Ministry of Transport, Japan, 3-37.  
*Kuriyama, Y., and Ozaki, Y. (1993). "Longshore current distribution on a bar-trough beach, Field measurements at HORF and numerical model," Report of Port and Harbour Research Institute 32(3), Ministry of Transport, Japan, 3-37.  
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[[Test_Cases | Test Cases]]

Latest revision as of 15:45, 27 October 2010

UNDER CONSTRUCTION

Field Data

Kuriyama and Ozaki (1993) measured the cross-shore distribution of longshore current and wave height at the Hazaki Oceanographical Research Facility (HORF) located on the Japan Pacific coast. Longshore current measurements were made from a 427 m long pier using a float. The wave heights were calculated with ultrasonic wave gauges. The data presented here was taken on March 28, 1989.

Model Setup

A nonuniform Cartesian grid is used with a variable resolution in the cross-shore direction of 3-10 m and a constant resolution of 4 m in the longshore direction. Table 1 shows the offshore wave conditions used in the model simulation. Specific settings for CMS-Flow and CMS-Wave including time steps and steering interval are provided in Tables 2 and 3.

Table 1. Offshore wave conditions

Variable Value
Incident wave angle 27º
Offshore significant wave height 2.14 m
Wave period 8.86 sec

Table 2. CMS-Flow setup

Setting Value
Solver Implicit
Time step 60 sec
Simulation duration 3 hr
Ramp duration 3 hr
Clock time 2.8 min

Table 3. CMS-Wave setup

Setting Value
Wave breaking Battjes and Jansen
Spectrum TMA
Directional spreading distribution Cosine Power
Directional spreading parameter γ 3.3
Bottom friction Off
Steering interval 0.25 hr

Results

The computed longshore current and significant wave heights are compared to field measurements in Figures 1 and 2. In general, a good comparison is obtained with measurements as illustrated by the goodness of fit statistics shown in Table 4.

Figure 1. Comparison of measured and calculated significant wave heights for the Kuriyama and Ozaki (1993) field experiment. The beach profile is also shown for reference.


Figure 2. Comparison of measured and calculated longshore current for the Kuriyama and Ozaki (1993) field experiment. The beach profile is also shown for reference.


Table 4. Goodness of fit statistics for the Kuriyama abd Ozaki (1993) field case

  No Roller Roller
  Hs, m V, m/s Hs, m V, m/s
RMSE 0.1020 0.2098 0.0976 0.1539
RMAE 0.0457 0.0666 0.0434 0.0142
R2 0.994 0.0015 0.995 0.3236
Bias -0.066 0.0284 -0.062 0.006

References

  • Kuriyama, Y., and Ozaki, Y. (1993). "Longshore current distribution on a bar-trough beach, Field measurements at HORF and numerical model," Report of Port and Harbour Research Institute 32(3), Ministry of Transport, Japan, 3-37.

Test Cases

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