Kuriyama Ozaki: Difference between revisions

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(Created page with " ==Field Data== Kuriyama and Ozaki (1993) measured the cross-shore distribution of longshore current and wave height at the Hazaki Oceanographical Research Facility (HORF) locat...")
 
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Table 1. Offshore wave conditions
Table 1. Offshore wave conditions
{|border="1"  
{|border="1"  
|Variable |Value
|Variable  
|Value
|-
|-
|Incident wave angle |27º
|Incident wave angle |27º
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|Wave period |8.86 sec
|Wave period |8.86 sec
|}
|}
Table 2. CMS-Flow setup
Table 2. CMS-Flow setup
{|border="1"  
{|border="1"  
|Setting |Value
|Setting  
|Value
|-
|-
|Solver |Implicit
|Solver |Implicit
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|Steering interval |0.25 hr
|Steering interval |0.25 hr
|}
|}
==Results==
==Results==
The computed longshore current and significant wave heights are compared to field measurements in Figures 1 and 2. In general, a good comparison is obtained with measurements as illustrated by the goodness of fit statistics shown in Table 4.
The computed longshore current and significant wave heights are compared to field measurements in Figures 1 and 2. In general, a good comparison is obtained with measurements as illustrated by the goodness of fit statistics shown in Table 4.

Revision as of 22:25, 25 October 2010

Field Data

Kuriyama and Ozaki (1993) measured the cross-shore distribution of longshore current and wave height at the Hazaki Oceanographical Research Facility (HORF) located on the Japan Pacific coast. Longshore current measurements were made from a 427 m long pier using a float. The wave heights were calculated with ultrasonic wave gauges. The data presented here was taken on March 28, 1989.

Model Setup

A nonuniform Cartesian grid is used with a variable resolution in the cross-shore direction of 3-10 m and a constant resolution of 4 m in the longshore direction. Table 1 shows the offshore wave conditions used in the model simulation. Specific settings for CMS-Flow and CMS-Wave including time steps and steering interval are provided in Tables 2 and 3.

Table 1. Offshore wave conditions

Variable Value
27º
2.14 m
8.86 sec

Table 2. CMS-Flow setup

Setting Value
Implicit
60 sec
3 hr
3 hr
2.8 min

Table 3. CMS-Wave setup

Value
Battjes and Jansen
TMA
Cosine Power
3.3
Off
0.25 hr

Results

The computed longshore current and significant wave heights are compared to field measurements in Figures 1 and 2. In general, a good comparison is obtained with measurements as illustrated by the goodness of fit statistics shown in Table 4.

Figure 1. Comparison of measured and calculated significant wave heights for the Kuriyama and Ozaki (1993) field experiment. The beach profile is also shown for reference.

Figure 2. Comparison of measured and calculated longshore current for the Kuriyama and Ozaki (1993) field experiment. The beach profile is also shown for reference.

Table 4. Goodness of fit statistics for the Kuriyama abd Ozaki (1993) field case

  Longshore current, m/s
0.0976 |0.1539
0.0291 |0.0078
0.995 |0.324
-0.062 |0.006

References

  • Kuriyama, Y., and Ozaki, Y. (1993). "Longshore current distribution on a bar-trough beach, Field measurements at HORF and numerical model," Report of Port and Harbour Research Institute 32(3), Ministry of Transport, Japan, 3-37.