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<big>CMS-Wave: A Nearshore Spectral Wave Processes Model for Coastal Inlets and Navigation Projects</big>


Title page
==Abstract==
 
The U.S. Army Corps of Engineers (USACE) plans, designs, constructs, and maintains jetties, breakwaters, training structures, and other types of coastal structures in support of Federal navigation projects. By means of these structures, it is common to constrain currents that can scour navigation channels, stabilize the location of channels and entrances, and provide wave protection to vessels transiting through inlets and navigation channels. Numerical wave predictions are frequently sought to guide management decisions for designing or maintaining structures and inlet channels.
----
 
{|border="2" cellspacing="0" cellpadding="4" width="100%"
|align = "right" bgcolor = "#FF0000" rowspan = "2"|<font color="#FFFFFF"><font size = "4">'''ERDC/CHL TR-08-13 '''</font></font>
|&nbsp;
|bgcolor = "#000000"|<font color="#000000">&nbsp;</font>
|align = "right" colspan = "2"|
[[Image:TR-08-13_02.jpg|200px|none]]
 
|-
|&nbsp;
|bgcolor = "#000000"|<font color="#000000">&nbsp;</font>
|colspan = "2"|''Coastal Inlets Research Program''<br><font size = "5">CMS-Wave: A Nearshore Spectral Wave Processes Model for Coastal Inlets and Navigation Projects</font><br>
 
|-
|bgcolor = "#FF0000" rowspan = "2"|<font color="#FFFFFF"><font size = "5">'''Coastal and Hydraulics Laboratory'''</font></font>
|&nbsp;
|bgcolor = "#000000"|<font color="#000000">&nbsp;</font>
|Lihwa Lin, Zeki Demirbilek, Hajime Mase, Jinhai Zheng, and Fumihiko&nbsp;Yamada
|align = "right"|<br>August 2008
 
|-
|&nbsp;
|bgcolor = "#000000"|<font color="#000000">&nbsp;</font>
|colspan = "2"|
[[Image:TR-08-13_03_16.png|600px|none]]
 
|-
|bgcolor = "#FF0000"|<font color="#000000">&nbsp;</font>
|&nbsp;
|bgcolor = "#000000"|<font color="#000000">&nbsp;</font>
|colspan = "2"|Approved for public release; distribution is unlimited.
 
|}
 
 
{|border="2" cellspacing="0" cellpadding="4" width="100%" align="center"
|'''Coastal Inlets Research Program'''
|align = "right"|'''ERDC/CHL TR-08-13'''<br>'''August 2008'''
 
|-
|colspan = "2"|<font size = "5">CMS-Wave: A Nearshore Spectral Wave Processes Model for Coastal Inlets and Navigation Projects</font><br>
 
|-
|colspan = "2"|Lihwa Lin and Zeki Demirbilek<br>''<br>U.S. Army Engineer Research and Development Center''<br>''Coastal and Hydraulics Laboratory<br>3909 Halls Ferry Road''<br>''Vicksburg, MS 39180-6199, USA''<br><br>Hajime Mase<br><br>''Disaster Prevention Research Institute''<br>''Kyoto University''<br>''Gokasho, Uji, Kyoto, 611-0011, JAPAN''<br><br>Jinhai Zheng<br><br>''Hohai University''<br>''Research Institute of Coastal and Ocean Engineering''<br>''1 Xikang Road, Nanjing, 210098, China''<br><br>Fumihiko Yamada<br><br>''Kumamato University''<br>''Graduate School of Science and Technology''<br>''2-39-1, Kurokami, Kumamoto, 860-8555, JAPAN''<br><br>
 
|-
|colspan = "2"|Final report<br>Approved for public release; distribution is unlimited<br>Prepared forU.S. Army Corps of Engineers<br>Washington, DC 20314-1000<br><br>Monitored byCoastal and Hydraulics Laboratory<br>U.S. Army Engineer Research and Development Center<br>3909 Halls Ferry Road, Vicksburg, MS 39180-6199
 
|}<br clear="all">
 
----
 
'''Abstract: '''The U.S. Army Corps of Engineers (USACE) plans, designs, constructs, and maintains jetties, breakwaters, training structures, and other types of coastal structures in support of Federal navigation projects. By means of these structures, it is common to constrain currents that can scour navigation channels, stabilize the location of channels and entrances, and provide wave protection to vessels transiting through inlets and navigation channels. Numerical wave predictions are frequently sought to guide management decisions for designing or maintaining structures and inlet channels.


The Coastal Inlets Research Program (CIRP) of the U.S. Army Engineer Research and Development Center (ERDC), Coastal and Hydraulics Laboratory (CHL), in collaboration with two universities in Japan, has developed a spectral wave transformation numerical model to address needs of USACE navigation projects. The model is called CMS-Wave and is part of Coastal Modeling System (CMS) developed in the CIRP. The CMS is a suite of coupled models operated in the Surface-water Modeling System (SMS), which is an interactive and comprehensive graphical user interface environment for preparing model input, running models, and viewing and analyzing results. CMS-Wave is designed for accurate and reliable representation of wave processes affecting operation and maintenance of coastal inlet structures in navigation projects, as well as in risk and reliability assessment of shipping in inlets and harbors. Important wave processes at coastal inlets are diffraction, refraction, reflection, wave breaking, dissipation mechanisms, and the wave-current interaction. The effect of locally generated wind can also be significant during wave propagation at inlets.
The Coastal Inlets Research Program (CIRP) of the U.S. Army Engineer Research and Development Center (ERDC), Coastal and Hydraulics Laboratory (CHL), in collaboration with two universities in Japan, has developed a spectral wave transformation numerical model to address needs of USACE navigation projects. The model is called CMS-Wave and is part of Coastal Modeling System (CMS) developed in the CIRP. The CMS is a suite of coupled models operated in the Surface-water Modeling System (SMS), which is an interactive and comprehensive graphical user interface environment for preparing model input, running models, and viewing and analyzing results. CMS-Wave is designed for accurate and reliable representation of wave processes affecting operation and maintenance of coastal inlet structures in navigation projects, as well as in risk and reliability assessment of shipping in inlets and harbors. Important wave processes at coastal inlets are diffraction, refraction, reflection, wave breaking, dissipation mechanisms, and the wave-current interaction. The effect of locally generated wind can also be significant during wave propagation at inlets.
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{|cellspacing="0" cellpadding = "10" style="border-style:solid; border-color:black; border-width:1px;"
|DISCLAIMER: The contents of this report are not to be used for advertising, publication, or promotional purposes. Citation of trade names does not constitute an official endorsement or approval of the use of such commercial products. All&nbsp;product names and trademarks cited are the property of their respective owners. The findings of this report are not to be construed as an official Department of the Army position unless so designated by other authorized documents.<br>
|DISCLAIMER: The contents of this report are not to be used for advertising, publication, or promotional purposes. Citation of trade names does not constitute an official endorsement or approval of the use of such commercial products. All&nbsp;product names and trademarks cited are the property of their respective owners. The findings of this report are not to be construed as an official Department of the Army position unless so designated by other authorized documents.<br>
<br>
DESTROY THIS REPORT WHEN NO LONGER NEEDED. DO NOT RETURN IT TO THE ORIGINATOR.<br>
|}
[[Image:TR-08-13_01.gif]]
----
<font size = "5">Contents</font>
{|border="0" cellspacing="2" width="100%"
|Figures and Tables
|align = "right" colspan = "3"|v
|-
|Preface
|align = "right" colspan = "3"|ix
|-
|colspan = "2"|'''1
|''''''Introduction
|align = "right"|1'''
|-
|colspan = "2"|&nbsp;
|Overview
|align = "right"|1
|-
|colspan = "2"|&nbsp;
|Review of wave processes at coastal inlets
|align = "right"|2
|-
|colspan = "2"|&nbsp;
|New features added to CMS-Wave
|align = "right"|7
|-
|colspan = "2"|'''2
|Model Description
|align = "right"|9'''
|-
|colspan = "2"|&nbsp;
|Wave-action balance equation with diffraction
|align = "right"|9
|-
|colspan = "2"|&nbsp;
|Wave diffraction
|align = "right"|9
|-
|colspan = "2"|&nbsp;
|Wave-current interaction
|align = "right"|10
|-
|colspan = "2"|&nbsp;
|Wave reflection
|align = "right"|11
|-
|colspan = "2"|&nbsp;
|Wave breaking formulas
|align = "right"|12
|-
|&nbsp;
|&nbsp;
|Extended Goda formula
|align = "right"|13
|-
|&nbsp;
|&nbsp;
|Extended Miche formula
|align = "right"|14
|-
|&nbsp;
|&nbsp;
|Battjes and Janssen formula
|align = "right"|15
|-
|&nbsp;
|&nbsp;
|Chawla and Kirby formula
|align = "right"|16
|-
|colspan = "2"|&nbsp;
|Wind forcing and whitecapping dissipation
|align = "right"|16
|-
|&nbsp;
|&nbsp;
|Wind input function
|align = "right"|16
|-
|&nbsp;
|&nbsp;
|Whitecapping dissipation function
|align = "right"|17
|-
|&nbsp;
|Wave generation with arbitrary wind direction
|align = "right" colspan = "2"|18
|-
|&nbsp;
|Bottom friction loss
|align = "right" colspan = "2"|18
|-
|&nbsp;
|Wave runup
|align = "right" colspan = "2"|19
|-
|&nbsp;
|Wave transmission and overtopping at structures
|align = "right" colspan = "2"|21
|-
|&nbsp;
|Grid nesting
|align = "right" colspan = "2"|21
|-
|&nbsp;
|Variable-rectangular-cell grid
|align = "right" colspan = "2"|22
|-
|&nbsp;
|Non-linear wave-wave interaction
|align = "right" colspan = "2"|22
|-
|&nbsp;
|Fast-mode calculation
|align = "right" colspan = "2"|23
|-
|colspan = "2"|'''3
|CMS-Wave Interface
|align = "right"|24'''
|-
|colspan = "2"|&nbsp;
|CMS-Wave files
|align = "right"|24
|-
|colspan = "2"|&nbsp;
|Components of CMS-Wave interface
|align = "right"|29
|-
|colspan = "2"|'''4
|Model Validation
|align = "right"|42'''
|-
|colspan = "2"|&nbsp;
|Case 1: Wave shoaling and breaking around an idealized inlet
|align = "right"|42
|-
|colspan = "2"|&nbsp;
|Case 2: Waves breaking on plane beach
|align = "right"|49
|-
|colspan = "2"|&nbsp;
|Case 3: Wave runup on impermeable uniform slope
|align = "right"|50
|-
|colspan = "2"|&nbsp;
|Case 4: Wave diffraction at breakwater and breakwater gap
|align = "right"|54
|-
|colspan = "2"|&nbsp;
|Case 5: Wave generation in fetch-limited condition
|align = "right"|60
|-
|colspan = "2"|&nbsp;
|Case 6: Wave generation in bays
|align = "right"|61
|-
|colspan = "2"|&nbsp;
|Case 7: Large waves at Mouth of Columbia River
|align = "right"|67
|-
|colspan = "2"|&nbsp;
|Case 8: Wave transformation in fast mode and variable-rectangular-cell grid
|align = "right"|74
|-
|colspan = "2"|&nbsp;
|Case 9: Wave transformation over complicated bathymetry with strong <br>nearshore current
|align = "right"|79
|-
|&nbsp;
|&nbsp;
|Extended Miche formula
|align = "right"|81
|-
|&nbsp;
|&nbsp;
|Extended Goda formula
|align = "right"|84
|-
|&nbsp;
|&nbsp;
|Battjes and Jansen formula
|align = "right"|87
|-
|&nbsp;
|&nbsp;
|Chawla and Kirby formula
|align = "right"|90
|-
|colspan = "2"|'''5
|Field Applications
|align = "right"|96'''
|-
|colspan = "2"|&nbsp;
|Matagorda Bay
|align = "right"|96
|-
|colspan = "2"|&nbsp;
|Grays Harbor Entrance
|align = "right"|99
|-
|colspan = "2"|&nbsp;
|Southeast Oahu coast
|align = "right"|106
|-
|'''References
|align = "right" colspan = "3"|111'''
|-
|'''Appendix A: CMA-Wave Input File Formats
|align = "right" colspan = "3"|117'''
|}
'''Report Documentation Page'''
==Figures and Tables==
====Figures====
{|border="0" cellspacing="2" width="100%"
|Figure 1. Files used in CMS-Wave simulation
|align = "right"|25
|-
|Figure 2. CMS-Wave menu
|align = "right"|30
|-
|Figure 3. Creating a grid
|align = "right"|32
|-
|Figure 4. Map -<nowiki>></nowiki>2D Grid Dialog
|align = "right"|33
|-
|Figure 5. CMS-Wave Cell Attributes dialog
|align = "right"|35
|-
|Figure 6. Spectral energy dialog for spectra visualization and generation
|align = "right"|36
|-
|Figure 7. CMS-Wave Model Control dialog
|align = "right"|38
|-
|Figure 8. Selecting wave spectra
|align = "right"|39
|-
|Figure 9. Project Explorer with solution read in
|align = "right"|40
|-
|Figure 10. Idealized inlet and instrument locations
|align = "right"|43
|-
|Figure 11. Input current fields for Runs 5-8, Runs 9-12, and save stations
|align = "right"|46
|-
|Figure 12. Measured and calculated current speeds along channel centerline, Runs 5-8
|align = "right"|46
|-
|Figure 13. Measured and calculated current speeds along channel centerline, Runs 9-12
|align = "right"|47
|-
|Figure 14. Measured and calculated wave heights along channel centerline, Runs 1-4
|align = "right"|47
|-
|Figure 15. Measured and calculated wave heights along channel centerline, Runs 5-8
|align = "right"|48
|-
|Figure 16. Measured and calculated wave heights along channel centerline, Runs 9-12
|align = "right"|48
|-
|Figure 17. Input current and wave setup fields with save stations for Exp. 4
|align = "right"|51
|-
|Figure 18. Measured and calculated wave heights, Exp. 4-7
|align = "right"|52
|-
|Figure 19. Measured and calculated 2% exceedance wave runup
|align = "right"|53
|-
|Figure 20. Wave diffraction diagram and calculated ''k''<nowiki>’</nowiki> for a breakwater
|align = "right"|55
|-
|Figure 21. Calculated wave vectors and ''K'', 0 deg incident wave
|align = "right"|55
|-
|Figure 22. Calculated wave vectors and ''K'', -45 deg incident wave
|align = "right"|56
|-
|Figure 23. Calculated wave vectors and ''K'', 45 deg incident wave
|align = "right"|56
|-
|Figure 24. Wave diffraction diagram and calculated ''K'' for a gap, ''B''&nbsp;=&nbsp;2''L''
|align = "right"|57
|-
|Figure 25. Wave diffraction diagram and calculated ''K'' for a gap, ''B''&nbsp;=&nbsp;''L''
|align = "right"|58
|-
|Figure 26. Calculated wave vectors and ''K'' for gap ''B''&nbsp;=&nbsp;2''L'', 0 deg incident wave
|align = "right"|58
|-
|Figure 27. Calculated wave vectors and ''K'' for gap ''B''&nbsp;=&nbsp;2''L'', -45 deg incident wave
|align = "right"|59
|-
|Figure 28. Calculated wave vectors and ''K'' for gap ''B''&nbsp;=&nbsp;2''L'', 45 deg incident wave
|align = "right"|59
|-
|Figure 29. Comparison of calculated wave generation and SMB curves
|align = "right"|61
|-
|Figure 30. Modeling grid domain for Rich Passage and wave gauge location
|align = "right"|62
|-
|Figure 31. Input current and calculated wave fields at 00:40 GMT, 29 March 2005
|align = "right"|63
|-
|Figure 32. Input current and calculated wave fields at 19:20 GMT, 29 March 2005
|align = "right"|64
|-
|Figure 33. Model domain and calculated wave field at 12:00 GMT, 27 February 1993
|align = "right"|66
|-
|Figure 34. Measured and calculated spectra at TSL, 12:00 GMT, 27 February 1993
|align = "right"|66
|-
|Figure 35. Wave model domain and directional wave data-collection stations
|align = "right"|68
|-
|Figure 36. Wave and wind data collected at Buoy 46029, sta 4 and 5
|align = "right"|68
|-
|Figure 37. Calculated waves with and without wind input, 10:00 GMT, 7 August 2005
|align = "right"|70
|-
|Figure 38. Calculated waves with and without wind input, 18:00 GMT, 9 September 2005
|align = "right"|70
|-
|Figure 39. Measured and calculated spectra at sta 1, 10:00 GMT, 7 August 2005
|align = "right"|70
|-
|Figure 40. Measured and calculated spectra at sta 2, 10:00 GMT, 7 August 2005
|align = "right"|71
|-
|Figure 41. Measured and calculated spectra at sta 3, 10:00 GMT, 7 August 2005
|align = "right"|71
|-
|Figure 42. Measured and calculated spectra at sta 4, 10:00 GMT, 7 August 2005
|align = "right"|71
|-
|Figure 43. Measured and calculated spectra at sta 5, 10:00 GMT, 7 August 2005
|align = "right"|72
|-
|Figure 44. Measured and calculated spectra at sta 1, 00:00 GMT, 30 August 2005
|align = "right"|72
|-
|Figure 45. Measured and calculated spectra at sta 2, 00:00 GMT, 30 August 2005
|align = "right"|72
|-
|Figure 46. Measured and calculated spectra at sta 3, 00:00 GMT, 30 August 2005
|align = "right"|73
|-
|Figure 47. Measured and calculated spectra at sta 4, 00:00 GMT, 30 August 2005
|align = "right"|73
|-
|Figure 48. Measured and calculated spectra at sta 5, 00:00 GMT, 30 August 2005
|align = "right"|73
|-
|Figure 49. Measured and calculated spectra at sta 2, 18:00 GMT, 9 September 2005
|align = "right"|74
|-
|Figure 50. Measured and calculated spectra at sta 3, 18:00 GMT, 9 September 2005
|align = "right"|74
|-
|Figure 51. CMS-Wave variable-cell grid and five monitoring stations at MCR
|align = "right"|76
|-
|Figure 52. Calculated wave fields in the standard mode, 12:00 GMT, 14 December 2001
|align = "right"|76
|-
|Figure 53. Calculated wave fields in the fast mode, 12:00 GMT, 14 December 2001
|align = "right"|77
|-
|Figure 54. Calculated wave fields in the fast mode, 13:00 GMT, 4 February 2006
|align = "right"|77
|-
|Figure 55. Bathymetry in meters and locations of wave and current meters
|align = "right"|80
|-
|Figure 56. Measured current and normalized wave height contours for directional and unidirectional incident waves
|align = "right"|80
|-
|Figure 57. Calculated wave height contours for directional incident waves without current and&nbsp;with current by the Extended Miche formula with coefficient of 0.14
|align = "right"|81
|-
|Figure 58. Calculated wave height contours for unidirectional incident waves without current&nbsp;and with&nbsp;current by the Extended Miche formula with coefficient of 0.14
|align = "right"|82
|-
|Figure 59. Measured versus calculated wave heights for directional and unidirectional incident waves with the Extended Miche formula
|align = "right"|83
|-
|Figure 60. Normalized wave height comparisons of directional waves along longitudinal and&nbsp;transverse transects with the Extended Miche formula
|align = "right"|83
|-
|Figure 61. Normalized wave height comparisons of unidirectional waves along longitudinal and&nbsp;transverse transects with the Extended Miche formula
|align = "right"|84
|-
|Figure 62. Calculated wave height contours for directional incident waves without current and&nbsp;with current by the Extended Goda formula with coefficient of 0.17
|align = "right"|85
|-
|Figure 63. Calculated wave height contours for unidirectional incident waves without current&nbsp;and with&nbsp;current by the Extended Goda formula with coefficient of 0.17
|align = "right"|85
|-
|Figure 64. Measured versus calculated wave heights for directional and unidirectional incident waves with the Extended Goda formula
|align = "right"|86
|-
|Figure 65. Normalized wave height comparisons of directional incident waves along longitudinal and transverse transects with the Extended Goda formula
|align = "right"|86
|-
|Figure 66. Normalized wave height comparisons of unidirectional incident waves along longitudinal and transverse transects with the Extended Goda formula
|align = "right"|87
|-
|Figure.67. Calculated wave height contours for directional incident waves without current and&nbsp;with current by the Battjes and Janssen formula
|align = "right"|88
|-
|Figure 68. Calculated wave height contours for unidirectional waves without current and with&nbsp;currents by the Battjes and Janssen formula
|align = "right"|88
|-
|Figure 69. Measured versus calculated wave heights for directional and unidirectional incident waves with the Battjes and Janssen formula
|align = "right"|89
|-
|Figure 70. Normalized wave height comparisons of directional incident waves along longitudinal and transverse transects with the Battjes and Janssen formula
|align = "right"|89
|-
|Figure 71. Normalized wave height comparisons of unidirectional incident waves along longitudinal and transverse transects with the Battjes and Janssen formula
|align = "right"|90
|-
|Figure 72. Calculated wave height contours for directional incident waves without current and&nbsp;with current by the Chawla and Kirby formula with '' ''of 0.6
|align = "right"|91
|-
|Figure 73. Calculated wave height contours for directional incident waves without current and&nbsp;with current by the Chawla and Kirby formula with '' ''of 1.0
|align = "right"|91
|-
|Figure 74. Calculated wave height contours for unidirectional incident waves without current&nbsp;and with&nbsp;current by the Chawla and Kirby formula with '' ''of 0.6
|align = "right"|92
|-
|Figure 75. Calculated wave height contours for unidirectional incident waves without current&nbsp;and with&nbsp;current by the Chawla and Kirby formula with '' ''of 1.0
|align = "right"|92
|-
|Figure 76. Measured versus calculated wave heights for directional and unidirectional incident waves with the Chawla and Kirby formula
|align = "right"|93
|-
|Figure 77. Normalized wave height comparisons of directional incident waves along longitudinal and transverse transects with the Chawla and Kirby formula
|align = "right"|93
|-
|Figure 78. Normalized wave height comparisons of unidirectional incident waves along longitudinal and transverse transects with the Chawla and Kirby formula
|align = "right"|94
|-
|Figure 79. Wind, tides, and wave data-collection stations in Matagorda Bay
|align = "right"|97
|-
|Figure 80. Matagorda Bay wind and water level data, September-December 2005
|align = "right"|98
|-
|Figure 81. Directional wave data collected at MBWAV, September-December 2005
|align = "right"|98
|-
|Figure 82. Calculated Matagorda Bay wave field at 08:00 GMT, 24 October 2005
|align = "right"|99
|-
|Figure 83. Wave data-collection stations at Grays Harbor
|align = "right"|101
|-
|Figure 84. Wind and wave data from NDBC 46029 and CDIP 036, <br>20-31 December 2003
|align = "right"|102
|-
|Figure 85. Calculated maximum flood current field, 19:00 GMT, 25 December 2003
|align = "right"|103
|-
|Figure 86. Calculated maximum ebb current field, December 2003
|align = "right"|103
|-
|Figure 87. Measured and calculated waves at HMB01, 24-28 December 2003
|align = "right"|104
|-
|Figure 88. Measured and calculated waves at HMB02, 24-28 December 2003
|align = "right"|104
|-
|Figure 89. Measured and calculated waves at HMB03, 24-28 December 2003
|align = "right"|105
|-
|Figure 90. Measured and calculated waves at HMB04, 24-28 December 2003
|align = "right"|105
|-
|Figure 91. Tide and wave data-collection stations and model domain for <br>SEO/RSM studies
|align = "right"|107
|-
|Figure 92. Bathymetry grid, and different bottom friction coefficient regions
|align = "right"|108
|-
|Figure 93. Measured and calculated waves at ADV1 and ADV3, August-September 2005
|align = "right"|109
|-
|Figure 94. Measured and calculated waves at ADV2, August-September 2005
|align = "right"|110
|}
|}


====Tables====
==Citation==
 
  Lin, L., Demirbilek, Z., Mase, H., Zheng, J., and Yamada, F. 2008. CMS-Wave: A nearshore
{|border="0" cellspacing="2" width="100%"
  spectral wave processes model for coastal inlets and navigation projects. Coastal and
|Table 1. CMS-Wave simulation files
  Hydraulics Laboratory Technical Report ERDC/CHL TR-08-13, Vicksburg, MS: U.S. Army Engineer
|align = "right"|26
  Research and Development Center, U.S.A.
 
|-
|Table 2. CMS-Wave Menu Commands
|align = "right"|30
 
|-
|Table 3. CMS-Wave Tools
|align = "right"|31
 
|-
|Table 4. Spectral Parameters
|align = "right"|37
 
|-
|Table 5. Incident wave parameters and current conditions
|align = "right"|44
 
|-
|Table 6. Incident wave conditions
|align = "right"|49


|-
==[[TR-08-13:Chapter1|Chapter 1 - Introduction]]==
|Table 7. Statistics of measured and calculated wave runup
* Overview
|align = "right"|53
* Review of wave processes at coastal inlets
* New features added to CMS-Wave


|-
==[[TR-08-13:Chapter2|Chapter 2 - Model Description]]==
|Table 8. Comparison of measured and calculated wave height at wave Gauge LT14
* Wave-action balance equation with diffraction
|align = "right"|64
* Wave diffraction
* Wave-current interaction
* Wave reflection
* Wave breaking formulas
** Extended Goda formula
** Extended Miche formula
** Battjes and Janssen formula
** Chawla and Kirby formula
* Wind forcing and whitecapping dissipation
** Wind input function
** Whitecapping dissipation function
* Wave generation with arbitrary wind direction
* Bottom friction loss
* Wave runup
* Wave transmission and overtopping at structures
* Grid nesting
* Variable-rectangular-cell grid
* Non-linear wave-wave interaction
* Fast-mode calculation


|-
==[[TR-08-13:Chapter3|Chapter 3 - CMS-Wave Interface]]==
|Table 9. Coordinates of wave monitoring stations at MCR
* CMS-Wave files
|align = "right"|67
* Components of CMS-Wave interface


|-
==[[TR-08-13:Chapter4|Chapter 4 - Model Validation]]==
|Table 10. Waves in two extreme storms observed offshore of MCR at Buoy 46029
* Case 1: Wave shoaling and breaking around an idealized inlet
|align = "right"|75
* Case 2: Waves breaking on plane beach
* Case 3: Wave runup on impermeable uniform slope
* Case 4: Wave diffraction at breakwater and breakwater gap
* Case 5: Wave generation in fetch-limited condition
* Case 6: Wave generation in bays
* Case 7: Large waves at Mouth of Columbia River
* Case 8: Wave transformation in fast mode and variable-rectangular-cell grid
* Case 9: Wave transformation over complicated bathymetry with strong nearshore current
** Extended Miche formula
** Extended Goda formula
** Battjes and Janssen formula
** Chawla and Kirby formula


|-
==[[TR-08-13:Chapter5|Chapter 5 - Field Applications]]==
|Table 11. Total computer runtime for two storm wave events at MCR
* Matagorda Bay
|align = "right"|78
* Grays Harbor Entrance
* Southeast Oahu coast


|-
==[[TR-08-13:Refs|References and Appendix]]==
|Table 12. Calculated wave height and direction, 12:00 GMT, 14 December 2001
|align = "right"|78
 
|-
|Table 13. Calculated wave height and direction, 13:00 GMT, 4 February 2006
|align = "right"|78
 
|-
|Table 14. Statistical mean relative errors and correlation coefficients
|align = "right"|95
 
|-
|Table 15. Comparison of measured and calculated waves at MBWAV
|align = "right"|99
 
|-
|Table 16. Coordinates of wave monitoring stations at Grays Harbor
|align = "right"|101
 
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|Table 17. Coordinates of ADV stations at southeast Oahu
|align = "right"|106
 
|}


==Preface==
==Preface==
Line 802: Line 87:
COL Gary E. Johnston was Commander and Executive Director of ERDC. Dr. James R. Houston was Director of ERDC.  
COL Gary E. Johnston was Commander and Executive Director of ERDC. Dr. James R. Houston was Director of ERDC.  


[[category:uncategorized]]
[[category:Publication]]

Latest revision as of 21:21, 24 September 2010

TR-08-13 Cover.png

CMS-Wave: A Nearshore Spectral Wave Processes Model for Coastal Inlets and Navigation Projects

Abstract

The U.S. Army Corps of Engineers (USACE) plans, designs, constructs, and maintains jetties, breakwaters, training structures, and other types of coastal structures in support of Federal navigation projects. By means of these structures, it is common to constrain currents that can scour navigation channels, stabilize the location of channels and entrances, and provide wave protection to vessels transiting through inlets and navigation channels. Numerical wave predictions are frequently sought to guide management decisions for designing or maintaining structures and inlet channels.

The Coastal Inlets Research Program (CIRP) of the U.S. Army Engineer Research and Development Center (ERDC), Coastal and Hydraulics Laboratory (CHL), in collaboration with two universities in Japan, has developed a spectral wave transformation numerical model to address needs of USACE navigation projects. The model is called CMS-Wave and is part of Coastal Modeling System (CMS) developed in the CIRP. The CMS is a suite of coupled models operated in the Surface-water Modeling System (SMS), which is an interactive and comprehensive graphical user interface environment for preparing model input, running models, and viewing and analyzing results. CMS-Wave is designed for accurate and reliable representation of wave processes affecting operation and maintenance of coastal inlet structures in navigation projects, as well as in risk and reliability assessment of shipping in inlets and harbors. Important wave processes at coastal inlets are diffraction, refraction, reflection, wave breaking, dissipation mechanisms, and the wave-current interaction. The effect of locally generated wind can also be significant during wave propagation at inlets.

This report provides information on CMS-Wave theory, numerical implementation, and SMS interface, and a set of examples demonstrating the model’s application. Examples given in this report demonstrate CMS-Wave applicability for storm-damage assessment, modification to jetties including jetty extensions, jetty breaching, addition of spurs to inlet jetties, and planning and design of nearshore reefs and barrier islands to protect beaches and promote navigation reliability.

DISCLAIMER: The contents of this report are not to be used for advertising, publication, or promotional purposes. Citation of trade names does not constitute an official endorsement or approval of the use of such commercial products. All product names and trademarks cited are the property of their respective owners. The findings of this report are not to be construed as an official Department of the Army position unless so designated by other authorized documents.

Citation

 Lin, L., Demirbilek, Z., Mase, H., Zheng, J., and Yamada, F. 2008. CMS-Wave: A nearshore 
 spectral wave processes model for coastal inlets and navigation projects. Coastal and 
 Hydraulics Laboratory Technical Report ERDC/CHL TR-08-13, Vicksburg, MS: U.S. Army Engineer 
 Research and Development Center, U.S.A.

Chapter 1 - Introduction

  • Overview
  • Review of wave processes at coastal inlets
  • New features added to CMS-Wave

Chapter 2 - Model Description

  • Wave-action balance equation with diffraction
  • Wave diffraction
  • Wave-current interaction
  • Wave reflection
  • Wave breaking formulas
    • Extended Goda formula
    • Extended Miche formula
    • Battjes and Janssen formula
    • Chawla and Kirby formula
  • Wind forcing and whitecapping dissipation
    • Wind input function
    • Whitecapping dissipation function
  • Wave generation with arbitrary wind direction
  • Bottom friction loss
  • Wave runup
  • Wave transmission and overtopping at structures
  • Grid nesting
  • Variable-rectangular-cell grid
  • Non-linear wave-wave interaction
  • Fast-mode calculation

Chapter 3 - CMS-Wave Interface

  • CMS-Wave files
  • Components of CMS-Wave interface

Chapter 4 - Model Validation

  • Case 1: Wave shoaling and breaking around an idealized inlet
  • Case 2: Waves breaking on plane beach
  • Case 3: Wave runup on impermeable uniform slope
  • Case 4: Wave diffraction at breakwater and breakwater gap
  • Case 5: Wave generation in fetch-limited condition
  • Case 6: Wave generation in bays
  • Case 7: Large waves at Mouth of Columbia River
  • Case 8: Wave transformation in fast mode and variable-rectangular-cell grid
  • Case 9: Wave transformation over complicated bathymetry with strong nearshore current
    • Extended Miche formula
    • Extended Goda formula
    • Battjes and Janssen formula
    • Chawla and Kirby formula

Chapter 5 - Field Applications

  • Matagorda Bay
  • Grays Harbor Entrance
  • Southeast Oahu coast

References and Appendix

Preface

The Coastal Inlets Research Program (CIRP) is developing and supporting a phase-averaged spectral wave model for inlets and nearshore applications. The model, called CMS-Wave is part of the Coastal Modeling System (CMS) for simulating nearshore waves, flow, sediment transport, and morphology change affecting planning, design, maintenance, and reliability of federal navigation projects. This report describes the theory and numerical implementation of the CMS-Wave interface in the Surface-water Modeling System (SMS), and contains examples to demonstrate use of the model in project applications.

The CIRP is administered at the U.S. Army Engineer Research and Development Center (ERDC), Coastal and Hydraulics Laboratory (CHL) under the Navigation Systems Program for Headquarters, U.S. Army Corps of Engineers (HQUSACE). James E. Walker is HQUSACE Navigation Business Line Manager overseeing CIRP. Jeff Lillycrop, CHL, is the Technical Director for the Navigation Systems Program. Dr. Nicholas C. Kraus, Senior Scientists Group (SSG), CHL, is the CIRP Program Manager.

The mission of CIRP is to conduct applied research to improve USACE capabilities to manage federally maintained inlets, which are present on all coasts of the United States, including the Atlantic Ocean, Gulf of Mexico, Pacific Ocean, Great Lakes, and U.S. territories. CIRP objectives are to advance knowledge and provide quantitative predictive tools to (a) make management of federal coastal inlet navigation projects, principally the design, maintenance, and operation of channels and jetties, more effective and reduce the cost of dredging; and (b) preserve the adjacent beaches and estuary in a systems approach that treats the inlet, beaches, and estuary as sediment-sharing components. To achieve these objectives, CIRP is organized in work units conducting research and development in hydrodynamics; sediment transport and morphology change modeling; navigation channels and adjacent beaches; navigation channels and estuaries; inlet structures and scour; laboratory and field investigations; and technology transfer.

This report was prepared by Drs. Lihwa Lin, Coastal Engineering Branch and Zeki Demirbilek, Harbors, Entrances and Structures Branch, both of ERDC-CHL, Vicksburg, MS; Drs. Hajime Mase of Disaster Research Institute at Kyoto University, Japan, and Jinhai Zheng, visiting Scholar at Kyoto University, and Fumihiko Yamada of the Applied Coastal Research Laboratory at Kumamato University, Japan.

Work at CHL was performed under the general supervision of Mr. Edmond J. Russo, Jr., P.E., Chief of Coastal Engineering Branch, Dr. Donald L. Ward, Acting Chief of Coastal Entrances and Structures Branch, and Dr. Rose M. Kress, Chief of Navigation Division. J. Holley Messing, Coastal Engineering Branch, Navigation Division, CHL, typed the equations and format-edited the report. Mr. Thomas W. Richardson was Director, CHL, and Dr. William D. Martin was Deputy Director, CHL, during the study and preparation of this report.

COL Gary E. Johnston was Commander and Executive Director of ERDC. Dr. James R. Houston was Director of ERDC.