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==References==
==References==
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Ahrens, J. P., and M. F. Titus. 1981. ''Laboratory data report: irregular wave runup on plane smooth slopes''. Coastal Engineering Research Center unpublished Laboratory Report. Vicksburg, MS: U.S. Army Engineer Waterways Experiment Station.
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Demirbilek, Z., L. Lin, and A. Zundel. 2007. ''WABED model in the SMS: Part 2. Graphical interface''. Coastal and Hydraulics Laboratory Engineering Technical Note ERDC/CHL CHETN-I-74. Vicksburg, MS: U.S. Army Engineer Research and Development Center.
Demirbilek, Z., L. Lin, and A. Zundel. 2007. ''WABED model in the SMS: Part 2. Graphical interface''. Coastal and Hydraulics Laboratory Engineering Technical Note ERDC/CHL CHETN-I-74. Vicksburg, MS: U.S. Army Engineer Research and Development Center.


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Hasselmann, K., T. P. Barnett, E. Bouws, H. Carlson, D. E. Cartwright, K. Enke, J. A. Ewing, H. Gienapp, D. E. Hasselmann, P. Kruseman, A. Meerbrug, P. Muller, D.&nbsp;J. Olbers, K. Richter, W. Sell, and H. Walden. 1973. Measurements of wind-wave growth and swell decay during the Joint North Sea Wave Project (JONSWAP). ''Deutsche Hydrographische Zeitschrift'' A80(12), 95 p.
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Hedges, T. S., K. Anastasiou, and D. Gabriel. 1985. Interaction of random waves and currents. ''Journal of Waterway, Port, Coastal, and Ocean Engineering'' 111(2):275-288, ASCE.


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Lin, L., and R.-Q. Lin. 2004a. Wave Breaking Function. ''Proceedings 8''<sup>''th</sup> ''''International Workshop on Wave Hindcasting and Prediction''. Oahu, Hawaii: North Shore. November 14-19.


Lin, R.-Q., and L. Lin. 2004b. Wind Input Function. ''Proceedings 8''<sup>''th</sup> ''''International Workshop on Wave Hindcasting and Prediction''. North Shore, Oahu, Hawaii. November 14-19.
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Lin, L., R.-Q. Lin, and J. P.-Y. Maa. 2006a. Numerical simulation of wind wave field. ''9th International Workshop on Wave Hindcasting and Prediction''. Victoria, British Columbia, Canada, 24-29 September.


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Seabergh, W. C., L. Lin, and Z. Demirbilek. 2005. ''Laboratory study of hydrodynamics near absorbing and fully reflecting jetties''. Coastal and Hydraulics Laboratory Technical Report ERDC/CHL TR-05-8. Vicksburg, MS: U.S. Army Engineer Research and Development Center.


''Shore protection manual''. 1984. 4<sup>th</sup> ed., 2 Vol, U.S. Army Engineer Waterways Experiment Station, U.S. Government Printing Office, Washington, DC.
''Shore protection manual''. 1984. 4<sup>th</sup> ed., 2 Vol, U.S. Army Engineer Waterways Experiment Station, U.S. Government Printing Office, Washington, DC.


Smith, J. M. 2001a. Breaking in a spectral wave model. ''Proceedings 4''<sup>''th</sup> ''''International Symposium of Ocean Wave Measurement and Analysis, Waves 01'', ASCE, 1,022-1,031.
Smith, J. M. 2001a. Breaking in a spectral wave model. ''Proceedings 4''<sup>''th</sup> ''''International Symposium of Ocean Wave Measurement and Analysis, Waves 01'', ASCE, 1,022-1,031.


Smith, J. M. 2001b. ''Modeling nearshore transformation with STWAVE''. Coastal and Hydraulics Laboratory Special Report ERDC/CHL SR-01-01. Vicksburg, MS: U.S. Army Engineer Research and Development Center.
Smith, J. M. 2001b. ''Modeling nearshore transformation with STWAVE''. Coastal and Hydraulics Laboratory Special Report ERDC/CHL SR-01-01. Vicksburg, MS: U.S. Army Engineer Research and Development Center.


Smith, J. M., D. T. Resio, and A. Zundel. 1999. ''STWAVE: Steady-state spectral wave model, Report 1: User's manual for STWAVE Version 2.0''. Coastal and Hydraulics Laboratory Instruction Report CHL-99-1. Vicksburg, MS: U.S. Army Engineer Waterways Experiment Station.
Smith, J. M., D. T. Resio, and A. Zundel. 1999. ''STWAVE: Steady-state spectral wave model, Report 1: User's manual for STWAVE Version 2.0''. Coastal and Hydraulics Laboratory Instruction Report CHL-99-1. Vicksburg, MS: U.S. Army Engineer Waterways Experiment Station.


Smith, J. M., W. C. Seabergh, G. S. Harkins, and M. J. Briggs. 1998. ''Wave breaking on a current at an idealized inlet''. Coastal and Hydraulics Laboratory Technical Report CHL-98-31. Vicksburg, MS: U.S. Army Engineer Waterways Experiment Station.
Smith, J. M., W. C. Seabergh, G. S. Harkins, and M. J. Briggs. 1998. ''Wave breaking on a current at an idealized inlet''. Coastal and Hydraulics Laboratory Technical Report CHL-98-31. Vicksburg, MS: U.S. Army Engineer Waterways Experiment Station.


Suh, K. D., Y. Y. Kim, and D. Y. Lee. 1994. Equilibrium-range spectrum of waves propagating on currents. ''Journal of Waterway, Port, Coastal, and Ocean Engineering'' 120(5):434-450, ASCE.
Suh, K. D., Y. Y. Kim, and D. Y. Lee. 1994. Equilibrium-range spectrum of waves propagating on currents. ''Journal of Waterway, Port, Coastal, and Ocean Engineering'' 120(5):434-450, ASCE.


Takayama, T., Ikeda, N., Hiraishi, T. 1991. ''Wave transformation calculation considering wave breaking and reflection''. Technical Report, Port Harbor Research Institute, Japan 30 (1): 21 67.
Takayama, T., Ikeda, N., Hiraishi, T. 1991. ''Wave transformation calculation considering wave breaking and reflection''. Technical Report, Port Harbor Research Institute, Japan 30 (1): 21 67.


Tayfun, M. A., R. A. Dalrymple, and C. Y. Yang. 1976. Random wave-current interaction in water of varying depth. ''Ocean Engineering'', Vol.3:403-420.
Tayfun, M. A., R. A. Dalrymple, and C. Y. Yang. 1976. Random wave-current interaction in water of varying depth. ''Ocean Engineering'', Vol.3:403-420.


Thornton, E. B., and R. T. Guza. 1983. Transformation of wave height distribution. ''Journal of Geophysical Research'' 88(C10):5,925-5,938.
Thornton, E. B., and R. T. Guza. 1983. Transformation of wave height distribution. ''Journal of Geophysical Research'' 88(C10):5,925-5,938.


Visser, P. J. 1991. Laboratory measurements of uniform longshore currents''. Coastal Engineering ''15:563-593.
Visser, P. J. 1991. Laboratory measurements of uniform longshore currents''. Coastal Engineering ''15:563-593.


Whitham, G. B. 1974. ''Linear and nonlinear waves''. New York, NY: John Wiley.
Whitham, G. B. 1974. ''Linear and nonlinear waves''. New York, NY: John Wiley.


Wiegel, R. L. 1962. Diffraction of waves by a semi-infinite breakwater. ''Journal of the Hydraulics Division'' 88(HY1):27-44.
Wiegel, R. L. 1962. Diffraction of waves by a semi-infinite breakwater. ''Journal of the Hydraulics Division'' 88(HY1):27-44.


Yu, Y. Y. 1950. Breaking of waves by opposing current. ''Transaction of American Geophysical Union'' 33(1):39-41.
Yu, Y. Y. 1950. Breaking of waves by opposing current. ''Transaction of American Geophysical Union'' 33(1):39-41.


Zhao, L., V. G. Panchang, W. Chen, Z. Demirbilek, and N. Chhabbra. 2001. Simulation of breaking effects in a two dimensional harbor wave prediction model. ''Coastal Engineering'' 42:359-373.
Zhao, L., V. G. Panchang, W. Chen, Z. Demirbilek, and N. Chhabbra. 2001. Simulation of breaking effects in a two dimensional harbor wave prediction model. ''Coastal Engineering'' 42:359-373.


Zheng, J., H. Mase, Z. Demirbilek, and L. Lin. 2008. Implementation and evaluation of alternative wave breaking formulas in a coastal spectral wave model. ''Ocean Engineering'' (in press).
Zheng, J., H. Mase, Z. Demirbilek, and L. Lin. 2008. Implementation and evaluation of alternative wave breaking formulas in a coastal spectral wave model. ''Ocean Engineering'' (in press).


Zubier, K., V. G. Panchang, and Z. Demirbilek. 2003. Simulation of waves at Duck (North Carolina) using two numerical models. ''Coastal Engineering Journal'' 45(3):439-469.
Zubier, K., V. G. Panchang, and Z. Demirbilek. 2003. Simulation of waves at Duck (North Carolina) using two numerical models. ''Coastal Engineering Journal'' 45(3):439-469.


Zundel, A. 2006. ''Surface-water modeling system reference manual – Version 9.2''. Provo, UT: Brigham Young University Environmental Modeling Research Laboratory.  
Zundel, A. 2006. ''Surface-water modeling system reference manual – Version 9.2''. Provo, UT: Brigham Young University Environmental Modeling Research Laboratory.  
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References

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Hedges, T. S., K. Anastasiou, and D. Gabriel. 1985. Interaction of random waves and currents. Journal of Waterway, Port, Coastal, and Ocean Engineering 111(2):275-288, ASCE.


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Jonsson, I. G. 1990. Wave-current interactions. Chapter 7, The Sea. B. Le Mehaute and D. Hanes (ed.). New York, NY: John Wiley and Sons, 65-120.


Komar, P. D. 1998. Beach processes and sedimentation. 2nd ed. Upper Saddle River, NJ: Prentice-Hall, Inc.


Komen, G. J., S. Hasselrnann, and K. Hasselmam. 1984. On the existence of a fully developed wind-sea spectrum. Journal of Physical Oceanography 14:1,271-1,285.


Kraus, N. C., L. Lin, B. K. Batten, and G. L. Brown. 2006. Matagorda Ship Channel, Texas: jetty stability study. Coastal and Hydraulics Laboratory Technical Report ERDC/CHL TR-06-7. Vicksburg, MS: U.S. Army Engineer Research and Development Center.


Lai, R. J., S. R. Long, and N. E. Huang. 1989. Laboratory studies of wave-current interaction: Kinematics of the strong interaction. Journal of Geophysical Research 97(C11):16,201-16,214.


Larson, M., and N. C. Kraus. 2002. NMLONG: Numerical model for simulating longshore current. Coastal and Hydraulics Laboratory Technical Report ERDC/CHL TR-02-22. Vicksburg, MS: U.S. Army Engineer Research and Development Center.


Li, Y., and G. Dong. 1993. Breaking of irregular waves with opposing current. Marine Science Bulletin 12(5):1-8 (in Chinese).


Lin, L., and Z. Demirbilek. 2005. Evaluation of two numerical wave models with inlet physical model. Journal of Waterway, Port, Coastal, and Ocean Engineering 131(4):149-161, ASCE.


Lin, L., and R.-Q. Lin. 2004a. Wave Breaking Function. Proceedings 8th 'International Workshop on Wave Hindcasting and Prediction. Oahu, Hawaii: North Shore. November 14-19.


Lin, R.-Q., and L. Lin. 2004b. Wind Input Function. Proceedings 8th 'International Workshop on Wave Hindcasting and Prediction. North Shore, Oahu, Hawaii. November 14-19.


Lin, L., R.-Q. Lin, and J. P.-Y. Maa. 2006a. Numerical simulation of wind wave field. 9th International Workshop on Wave Hindcasting and Prediction. Victoria, British Columbia, Canada, 24-29 September.


Lin, L., H. Mase, F. Yamada, and Z. Demirbilek. 2006b. Wave-action balance equation diffraction (WABED) model: Tests of wave diffraction and reflection at inlets. Coastal and Hydraulics Engineering Technical Note ERDC/CHL CHETN-III-73. Vicksburg, MS: U.S. Army Engineer Research and Development Center.


Longuet-Higgins, M. S., and R. W. Stewart. 1961. The changes in amplitude of short gravity waves on steady non-uniform currents. Journal of Fluid Mechanics 10(4):529-549.


Lowe, R. J., J. L. Falter, M. D. Bandet, G. Pawlak, M. J. Atkinson, S. G. Monismith, J. R. Koseff. 2005. Spectal wave dissipation over a barrier reef. Journal of Geophysical Research 110(C04001), doi:10.1029/2004JC002711, 16 p.


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Mase, H. 1989. Random wave runup height on gentle slope. Journal of Waterway, Port, Coastal, and Ocean Engineering 85(3):123-152, ASCE.


Mase, H., H. Amamori, and T. Takayama. 2005a. Wave prediction model in wave-current coexisting field. Proceedings 12th 'Canadian Coastal Conference (CD-ROM).


Mase, H., and Y. Iwagaki. 1984. Runup of random waves on gentle slopes. Proceedings 19th 'International Conference on Coastal Engineering, ASCE, 593-609.


Mase, H., and T. Kitano. 2000. Spectrum-based prediction model for random wave transformation over arbitrary bottom topography. Coastal Engineering Journal 42(1):111 151, JSCE.


Mase, H., K. Oki, T. S. Hedges, and H. J. Li. 2005b. Extended energy-balance-equation wave model for multidirectional random wave transformation. Ocean Engineering 32(8-9):961-985.


Miche, M. 1951. Le pouvoir reflechissant des ouvrages maritimes exposes a 1'action de la houle. Annals des Ponts et Chau.ssess. 121e Annee: 285-319 (translated by Lincoln and Chevron, University of California, Berkeley, Wave Research Laboratory, Series 3, Issue 363, June 1954).


Mitsuyasu, H., and T. Honda. 1982. Wind-induced growth of water waves. Journal of Fluid Mechanics 123:425-442.


Nwogu, O., and Z. Demirbilek. 2001. BOUSS-2D: A Boussinesq wave model for coastal regions and harbors. Coastal and Hydraulics Laboratory Technical Report ERDC/CHL TR-01-25. Vicksburg, MS: U.S. Army Engineer Research and Development Center.


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Osborne, P. D., and N. J. MacDonald. 2005. Wave energy evaluation of passenger only ferries in Rich Passage. FTA Report FTA-WA-26-7007-2005. Washington, DC: Federal Transit Administration, U.S. Department of Transportation.


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Seabergh, W. C., W. R. Curtis, L. J. Thomas, and K. K. Hathaway. 2002. Physical model study of wave diffraction-refraction at an idealized inlet. Coastal Inlet Research Program Technical Report ERDC/CHL-TR-02-27. Vicksburg, MS: U.S. Army Engineer Research and Development Center.


Seabergh, W. C., L. Lin, and Z. Demirbilek. 2005. Laboratory study of hydrodynamics near absorbing and fully reflecting jetties. Coastal and Hydraulics Laboratory Technical Report ERDC/CHL TR-05-8. Vicksburg, MS: U.S. Army Engineer Research and Development Center.


Shore protection manual. 1984. 4th ed., 2 Vol, U.S. Army Engineer Waterways Experiment Station, U.S. Government Printing Office, Washington, DC.


Smith, J. M. 2001a. Breaking in a spectral wave model. Proceedings 4th 'International Symposium of Ocean Wave Measurement and Analysis, Waves 01, ASCE, 1,022-1,031.


Smith, J. M. 2001b. Modeling nearshore transformation with STWAVE. Coastal and Hydraulics Laboratory Special Report ERDC/CHL SR-01-01. Vicksburg, MS: U.S. Army Engineer Research and Development Center.


Smith, J. M., D. T. Resio, and A. Zundel. 1999. STWAVE: Steady-state spectral wave model, Report 1: User's manual for STWAVE Version 2.0. Coastal and Hydraulics Laboratory Instruction Report CHL-99-1. Vicksburg, MS: U.S. Army Engineer Waterways Experiment Station.


Smith, J. M., W. C. Seabergh, G. S. Harkins, and M. J. Briggs. 1998. Wave breaking on a current at an idealized inlet. Coastal and Hydraulics Laboratory Technical Report CHL-98-31. Vicksburg, MS: U.S. Army Engineer Waterways Experiment Station.


Suh, K. D., Y. Y. Kim, and D. Y. Lee. 1994. Equilibrium-range spectrum of waves propagating on currents. Journal of Waterway, Port, Coastal, and Ocean Engineering 120(5):434-450, ASCE.


Takayama, T., Ikeda, N., Hiraishi, T. 1991. Wave transformation calculation considering wave breaking and reflection. Technical Report, Port Harbor Research Institute, Japan 30 (1): 21 67.


Tayfun, M. A., R. A. Dalrymple, and C. Y. Yang. 1976. Random wave-current interaction in water of varying depth. Ocean Engineering, Vol.3:403-420.


Thornton, E. B., and R. T. Guza. 1983. Transformation of wave height distribution. Journal of Geophysical Research 88(C10):5,925-5,938.


Visser, P. J. 1991. Laboratory measurements of uniform longshore currents. Coastal Engineering 15:563-593.


Whitham, G. B. 1974. Linear and nonlinear waves. New York, NY: John Wiley.


Wiegel, R. L. 1962. Diffraction of waves by a semi-infinite breakwater. Journal of the Hydraulics Division 88(HY1):27-44.


Yu, Y. Y. 1950. Breaking of waves by opposing current. Transaction of American Geophysical Union 33(1):39-41.


Zhao, L., V. G. Panchang, W. Chen, Z. Demirbilek, and N. Chhabbra. 2001. Simulation of breaking effects in a two dimensional harbor wave prediction model. Coastal Engineering 42:359-373.


Zheng, J., H. Mase, Z. Demirbilek, and L. Lin. 2008. Implementation and evaluation of alternative wave breaking formulas in a coastal spectral wave model. Ocean Engineering (in press).


Zubier, K., V. G. Panchang, and Z. Demirbilek. 2003. Simulation of waves at Duck (North Carolina) using two numerical models. Coastal Engineering Journal 45(3):439-469.


Zundel, A. 2006. Surface-water modeling system reference manual – Version 9.2. Provo, UT: Brigham Young University Environmental Modeling Research Laboratory.


Appendix A: CMS-Wave Input File Formats

There are ten input files associated with CMS-Wave. Four of them are required:

  • simulation (*.sim)
  • options (*.std)
  • depth (*.dep)
  • energy (*.eng)

and six others are optional:

  • water level (*.eta)
  • current (*.cur)
  • structure (*.struct)
  • bottom friction coefficient file (friction.dat)
  • forward reflection coefficient file (forward.dat)
  • backward reflection coefficient file (backward.dat)

File formats are described as follows.

Simulation file: *.sim: A sample simulation file is shown below:

CMS-Wave 0.0000 0.0000 0.0000
DEP
SlopeBeach.dep
OPTS
SlopeBeach.std
CURR
SlopeBeach.cur
ETA
SlopeBeach.eta
SPEC
SlopeBeach.eng
WAVE
SlopeBeach.wav
OBSE
SlopeBeach.obs
NEST
SlopeBeach.nst
BREAK
SlopeBeach.brk
SPGEN
SlopeBeach.txt
STRUCT
SlopeBeach.struct
RADS
SlopeBeach.rad

The first line contains the keyword "CMS-Wave" to indicate the Wave simulation is under CMS-Wave. This line of the file also contains the world origin (x, y) and rotation (measured CCW from east to the local I or x-axis) of the grid. SlopeBeach.nst is the optional output spectrum file for input to a nested child grid simulation.

Settings file: *.std: An example settings file is shown below:

1 0 2 1 3 0 0 1 1 0 1.00 0.005 0.500 0.300 2

1 3

2 2

3 3

The first line lists of 15 numbers, each number in the setting file defines a setting or option parameter for the run. The first six parameters (iprp, icur, ibrk, irs, kout, ibnd) are the same as defined for STWAVE Version 5.4. The next nine parameters (iwet, ibf, iark, iarkr, akap, bf, ark, arkr, iwvbk) are provided for special features of CMS-Wave. For example, the first number (iprp = 1) specified that a wave spectrum is provided at the offshore boundary and the wind effect is not calculated even it is provided in the spectrum input file (*.eng). The next three lines in the example settings file list the (x, y) indices for three special output locations (kout = 3).

CMS-Wave can also read the *.std in a card format. A sample card format file, containing the same info in the above example, is given below:

0 !icur - 0: no action, 1: read current input file
2 !ibrk - 0: no action, 1: output breaker index, 2: save wave dissipation file
1 !irs - 0: no action, 1: save wave radiation file
3 !kout - 0: no action, n: save special n-location file
0 !ibnd - 0: no action, 1: linear interpolation of boundary wave input, 2: morphic
0 !iwet - 0: include water level input, 1: neglect water level input
1 !iprp - 0: include wind-wave generation, 1: wave propagation only
1 !ibf - 0: neglect bottom friction, 1: const Cf, 2: varied Cf, 3: const n, 4: varied n

0.005 !bf – a constant global bottom friction coef

2 !iwvbk – wave breaking formula 0: Extended Goda, 1: Extended Miche, 2: B&J 3:K&C
1 !iark - 0: no forward reflection, 1: with forward reflection
0.5 !ark – a constant global forward reflection coef (between 0 and 1)
0 !iarkr - 0: no backward reflection, 1: with backward reflection
0.3 !arkr –a constant global backward reflection coef (between 0 and 1)
1. !akap – a constant diffraction intensity (between 0 and 4)
  1 3
  2 2
  3 3

Each card describes a single setting parameter. The list of cards is not required in sequential orders. Blank lines between cards are permitted. If any parameter is omitted, a default value is then applied.

Depth file: *.dep: A sample depth file is shown:

3 6 100.00 200.00
9.93125
9.79375 9.65625 7.51875 3.38125 1.24375
8.55625
7.41875 5.28125 3.14375 1.00625 -0.86875
8.18125
7.04375 4.90625 2.76875 -0.63125 -1.49375

The first line contains the number of rows (=3), columns and (=6) the size of cells in the x and y directions (100 and 200 m in the example). Depth values are then specified for each cell in the row-to-row order (from top row to bottom row in the model domain).

Energy file: *.eng: A portion of a sample energy file is shown:

30 35
0.040 0.050 0.060 0.070 0.080 0.090 0.100 0.110
0.120 0.130 0.140 0.150 0.160 0.170 0.180 0.190
0.200 0.210 0.220 0.230 0.240 0.250 0.260 0.270
0.280 0.290 0.300 0.310 0.320 0.330
08010100 5.00 10.00 0.130 0.500
0.00000
0.00000 0.00000 0.00000 0.00000 0.00000
0.00000
0.00000 0.00000 0.00000 0.00000 0.00000
0.00000
0.00000 0.00000 0.02000 0.13000 0.25000

...

The first line defines the dimension of the spectral grid (number of frequency bins and number of direction bins in a half plane). The next several lines define the frequency values for the grid. Following the grid specification, the file includes a definition line for each directional spectrum consisting of an identifier (08010100 in the example), wind speed (m/sec) and wind direction (deg) for this spectrum (5 m/sec and 10 deg in this sample case), a spectral peak frequency (0.13 Hz in the example), a tidal offset (0.5 m above the model mean water level), and then an energy density (m2 sec/radian) for each cell in the spectral grid.


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