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  • ...eries of physical model tests, for an open-coast sandy beach modified with T-head groins. It is important to understand the relative benefits available ...km long stretch of the barrier island and construction of several emergent T-head groins (Figure 1). The three-dimensional physical model was undertake
    4 KB (585 words) - 17:02, 28 December 2010

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  • ...mb|left|600px| Figure 2. Computed bed elevations and current velocities at t=4 hrs.]] ...on.png|thumb|left|600px| Figure 3. Computed and measured bed elevations at t=1,4 hrs.]]
    1 KB (178 words) - 22:29, 22 October 2010
  • ==T==
    1 KB (230 words) - 19:00, 13 October 2010
  • {{Equation| <math> \frac{\partial ( h U_i ) }{\partial t} {{Equation| <math> \frac{\partial }{\partial t} \int_A h U_i dA
    2 KB (391 words) - 19:00, 17 March 2011
  • ...a section of coast without changing shape. During an interval of time (Δ''t''), a net amount of sand enters or leaves the section. The change in shorel <!--'''ΔV = ΔxΔy(D<sub>B</sub>+D<sub>C</sub>) = (ΔQ/Δx)ΔxΔt +qΔxΔt'''-->
    2 KB (405 words) - 19:18, 13 February 2023
  • : A<sub>w</sub> = semi-orbital excurision = <math>\frac{u_w T}{2 \pi} [m/s]</math> :T = wave period [s] (for random waves T = T<sub>p</sub>).
    2 KB (346 words) - 15:34, 23 January 2023
  • fprintf(fid,'%s\t',text{1,j}); fprintf(fid,'%s\t','');
    3 KB (467 words) - 19:07, 26 January 2012
  • <math> {\frac{\partial y}{\partial t}} = (\varepsilon_1 + \varepsilon_2) {\frac{\partial^2 y}{\partial x^2}} </m <math> R_s = \frac{\Delta t (\varepsilon_1 + \varepsilon_2)}{(\Delta x)^2} </math>
    4 KB (682 words) - 14:57, 6 March 2023
  • ...eries of physical model tests, for an open-coast sandy beach modified with T-head groins. It is important to understand the relative benefits available ...km long stretch of the barrier island and construction of several emergent T-head groins (Figure 1). The three-dimensional physical model was undertake
    4 KB (585 words) - 17:02, 28 December 2010
  • {{Equation|<math> \frac{\partial \eta}{\partial t} + h \frac{\partial U}{\partial x} = 0</math>|1}} {{Equation|<math> \frac{\partial U}{\partial t} = -g \frac{\partial \eta}{\partial x}</math>|2}}
    6 KB (885 words) - 20:14, 18 April 2013
  • <math>\frac{\partial h}{\partial t} + \frac {\partial(hV_j)} {\partial x_j} = S^M</math> ...c{\partial p_{a}}{\partial x_i} + \frac {\partial}{\partial x_j} {\left(v_{t}h \frac {\partial V_i} {\partial x_j} \right)} - \frac{1}{\rho} \frac{\part
    3 KB (506 words) - 15:39, 18 February 2015
  • ...al q_{t*j}}{\partial x_j} + \frac{\partial }{\partial x_j} \biggl[ D_s |q_{t*}| \frac{\partial \zeta}{\partial x_j} \biggr] ...A. M., C. W. Reed, N. C. Kraus, N. Ono, M. Larson, B. Camenen, H. Hanson, T. Wamsley, and A. K. Zundel. (2006). “Two-dimensional depth-averaged circu
    3 KB (437 words) - 18:11, 23 February 2015
  • |'''''T'''''<sub>'''''p''</sub> ''''''(sec)'''<sup>'''a'''</sup> |colspan = "5"|a. Monochromatic wave. <br>b. ''f''<sub>''p''</sub>=1/''T''<sub>''p''</sub>. <br>c. Wave direction relative to shore-normal.
    3 KB (426 words) - 20:30, 22 November 2010
  • \frac {\partial (hV_i^*)}{\partial t} + \frac {\partial (hV_j^* V_i^*)} {\partial x_j} = \frac {\partial}{\parti Using <math>\partial h / \partial t = (\partial p /\partial t)/(\rho g)</math> and substituting <math>V_i ^{n+1} = V_i ^* + V_i ^' </math
    5 KB (881 words) - 18:29, 18 February 2015
  • |'''''T'''''<sub>'''''p''</sub> ''''''(sec)'''<sup>'''a'''</sup> |colspan = "5"|a. Monochromatic wave. <br>b. ''f''<sub>''p''</sub>=1/''T''<sub>''p''</sub>. <br>c. Wave direction relative to shore-normal.
    3 KB (463 words) - 16:04, 13 December 2010
  • *Bye, J. A. T. 1985. Large-scale momentum exchange in the coupled atmosphere–ocean, cou *Dawe, J. T., and L. Thompson. 2006. Effect of ocean surface currents on wind stress, h
    4 KB (573 words) - 16:48, 18 February 2015
  • ...quation in latex surrounded by <nowiki><math>..</math></nowiki>. They don't absolutely need to be simple expressions.
    1 KB (179 words) - 16:14, 21 December 2022
  • ...A. M., C. W. Reed, N. C. Kraus, N. Ono, M. Larson, B. Camenen, H. Hanson, T. Wamsley, and A. K. Zundel. (2006). “Two-dimensional depth-averaged circu
    1 KB (177 words) - 18:49, 12 September 2010
  • ...e they are truly for ADVANCED use only or they are very new and just haven't been added yet. These cards still need to be read by CMS and so we have pro
    1 KB (226 words) - 18:41, 15 November 2021
  • ...nsport formulation from what is employed in the release version of GENESIS-T (i.e., the version included with the CEDAS interface package) (Hanson and K ...t throughout the simulation such that breaking wave heights were H=0.26 m, T = 1.5 sec, and Dir=6.5-deg as measured in the LSTF experiment. Wave inputs
    6 KB (916 words) - 17:23, 30 July 2013
  • ...</sub> defined as 4 times the total energy density, spectral peak period ''T''<sub>''p''</sub>, and spectral peak frequency ''f''<sub>''p''</sub>), and |'''''T'''''<sub>'''''p''</sub> ''''''(sec)'''<sup>'''a'''</sup>
    7 KB (1,011 words) - 20:03, 22 November 2010
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